Hud- Pelle- Haut: OSLO/ MILAN/ DÜSSELDORF

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by Typ-0.Lab, photo Nick Soland of the MSGM AW23 Menswear fashion show took place at the M1 metro line in Milan
February 20, 2024
PROJECT DETAILS
The three-year collaborative project "Hud- Pelle- Haut, " joining forces with NABA, HSD Düsseldorf, and Kristiania University College.
Key message
Three Cities, Four Layers of Skin: Milan, Oslo, and Düsseldorf's Meetings with Fashion, Space, and Identity. A cross-city international collaborative project aimed at exploring and documenting the multilayered connections between fashion cultures, interior spaces and urban spaces, with an emphasis on diversity, equality, and inclusion.
Outcome
Envisioning design proposals for future fashion spaces influenced by the findings of the research.
In Italian language, Penht’s concept of the three shells resonates in the common etymological root of the related words: the garment - the second skin - is “abito,” the dwelling - the third skin - is “abitazione," the habit is “abitudine,” to inhabit is “abitare.” All of them come from the ancient latin verb that corresponds to “to have.” All of them, therefore, derive from the idea of permanent possession of something of our own: our skins, our clothes, our homes, our cities. At the same time, the temporary nature of fashion questions the permanence and the solidity of these structures.

Das Gewand ist jenseits der Haut die zweite Hülle, Architektur ist die dritte. - The garment is the second shell beyond the skin, architecture is the third.”

Das Prinzip der Bekleidung, Wolfgang Pehnt.

Year One - Milan

Theme:

The Rise andImpact of Paninari: Milan's Youth Phenomenon and Fashion Spaces in the 1970s.

Cordniating University:

Nuova Accademia Srl

Cordinators:

Luca Poncellini, Applied Arts Department Head,

Chiara Vaghi, Academic Coordination Manager.

The first step of this research will be dedicated to the “Paninari” movement, a youth phenomenon with a specific fashion language, that had a strong impact on theItalian society in the 1980s. Preliminary research through remote coordination. Field research in Milano through guided tours and interviews. Reporting the outcomes of the research with multimedia contents. Final exhibition. Eventually, envisioning design proposals for future fashion spaces influenced by the findings of the research.

Year Two - Dusseldorf

Theme:

Dusseldorf's Cultural Beat: The Interplay of Fashion, Art, and Music.

Coordinating University:

University of Applied Arts Düsseldorf

Coordinators:

Professors Lars Breuer and Bernhard Franken.

Düsseldorf’s 1970’s and 80’s fashion and music was oscillating in between two extremes: on one hand side bands like Kraftwerk, Neu!, and La Düsseldorf built one point of origin for an international movement of electronic music. Abroad this movement was known and became famous under the label Krautrock.

A second focus of the underground movement was Punk. Besides Berlin and Hamburg Düsseldorf became one of the most active cities with bars like the Ratinger Hof and the Creamcheese. Located next to the art academy both institutions were connected with the local and national art scene (Imi Knoebel designed the Ratinger Hof in a radical way in 1976.)

 The electronic music movement as well aspunk was highly influential on the fashion scene. Besides this underground movement Düsseldorf is well known for the Düsseldorf Fashion Days (previouslyCollection Première Düsseldorf) which was arisen from one of the biggest business to business trade fair.

 

●    Activities:

●     Insight into the early days of punk and new wave and how it is related to the city's fashion identity.

●     Exploring Kraftwerk and their influence on Dusseldorf's contemporary scene.

●     City tours exploring the relationship between music, art, and fashion.

●    Interactive sessions understanding the socio-cultural evolution of the city through its music and fashion narratives.

Year Three - Oslo

Theme:

Creating a new type of fashion community.

In collaboration with the International Library of Fashion Research.

Coordinating University:

Typ-0.Lab of Kristiania University College

Coordinators:

Professor Vésma Kontere McQuilan and Assistant Professor Jannucke Johansen.

See related text project

Becoming the Kristiania Guide to Shopping