Inspired by the Image of Vera Kholodnaya: Ulyana Sergeenko Couture SS2021

by Vésma Kontere McQuillan/ Ulyana Sergeenko Press Office
January 27, 2021
Ulyana Sergeenko Couture SS2021
At the beginning of this year, marking the fashion house’s ten-year anniversary, Ulyana Sergeenko celebrates with her new Couture collection for the Spring Summer 2021 season. The heroine of the collection was inspired by the image of Vera Kholodnaya, the most famous Russian actress in silent film.
The character of all the collection’s elements and artistic approaches was inspired by Art-Déco — the ruling style of the 1920s when the icons of the brand’s collection lived and worked. The style’s influence can be traced through the combination of textures, the nature of the lines and silhouettes, the choice of colors, and the graphic focus of the ornamentation and embroidery. In the new collection, all of the attention is devoted, as usual, to natural fabrics, manual labor, and the exquisite quality of the pieces.
Other legendary names of the 1920s share this season’s moodboard with Vera Kholodnaya: namely, the sculptor Demétre Chiparus with his dancing ladies, and the artist Roman Tyrtov—better known under the pseudonym Erte—whose graphic artworks for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar embody the spirit of his time. Here are also architecture, interior décor, urban landmarks, and sculptures: New York’s Empire State Building, the Lenin Library in Moscow, Vera Mukhina’s sculpture “The Worker and the Kolkhoz Woman,” Moscow’s “Aeroport” metro station, and others.

Inspired by Demeter Chiparus

For daily appearances, Ulyana Sergeenko dresses her heroine in austere but relaxed suits with wide and slightly turned up shoulders, wide trousers, soft cardigans, and comfortable chiffon dresses. During the night she shines in dresses made of flowing, airy fabrics, with ringing fringes and transparent shards of crystals cattered over her outfits. A “fur coat” made of marabou feathers or a shawl made of embroidered silk threads is thrown over her shoulders. The lightness of evening dresses made of weightless fabrics gives plasticity to the whole image as if in front of us is a living sculpture by Demeter Chiparus.

Russian traditional crafts

Knowing for her great passion for traditional crafts and rare techniques, Ulyana adorns the new collection with numerous handcrafted details. This season, the fashion house is working together with more Russian traditional crafts than ever: crystal details for clothing and accessories were created at the Gus Khrustalny factory, the miniature buttons and brooches for suits and dresses were painted by the artists at“Rostovskaya Finift”, the lace elements for evening wear were concocted by master craftswomen at “Lace Land”atelier from Yelets and the Kadomsky Veniz factory, the geometric ornaments were embroidered by Krestetskaya Stitch and the clutches were hand-carved from wood.


Precious fabrics such as silk, chiffon, cady, velvet crepe, wool and cashmere are featured in burgundy, blue and crimson colors, together with classical black and white combinations and subdued shades: dusty rose, beige and grey


The accessory line is presented with a wide range of items: from headpieces and face masks embroidered with Yelets laces and decorated with crystals, Carl Zeiss lens with author’s ornaments on it, to the variety of belts with crystal elements, hand craved wood clutches, fully embroidered beaded bags, and, of course, high heels.

Images Courtesy of Ulyana Sergeenko/ Words Ulyana Sergeenko Press release

Collages by Christine Kalvik