In parallel to this conceptual repurposing of base materials, Viktor&Rolf continue to build on their upcycling Haute Couture collections of the last years. Archival materials are used, ranging from minuscule patches of vintage laces and jacquards to fragments of vintage dresses (some taken from their own previous collections) as well as sweatshirts. The outfits in this collection show incongruous combinations. As if the separate elements that constitute them were picked up from a pile haphazardly and put together in haste by a flock of party people who can't wait to go clubbing, knowing quite well they cannot, as of yet.
Roughly speaking there are two silhouettes: voluminous skirts with body conscious tops and wide, loose dresses in varying lengths. Extravagant, "serious" ballgown couture skirts accentuate the waist and draw attention to the upper part of the body. Sporting dégradé ruffles, volants and voluminous tulle, they are combined with body hugging, uncovered couture 'bra' tops, heavily embroidered in metal, lace, crystals and vintage jewellery. These silhouettes are complemented by loose fitting, straight, batwing or A-line dresses, assembled from vintage sweatshirts. Cut up and pieced back together, these are studies in volume, heavily embellished with a disparate mix of materials and techniques. This season, several garments are made using vintage, 'lost and found' jewellery pieces and diamanté pins. "Anything Goes" as long as the mix is vibrant and unexpectedly elegant.
All looks are styled with Melissa/ Viktor&Rolf shoes (made from recycled plastic) in bright candy colours: heavy soled high top lace-ups. To stay securely grounded while you're temporarily floating.With this collection Viktor&Rolf felt more free than ever, motivated by a sincere desire for 2021 to become a "Feel Good Year".
Images Courtesy of Victor&Rolf/ Words Victor&Rolf Press release.
Collages by Christine Kalvik